◀ ▶ carve · ▲ pump · ▼ stall · SPACE manoeuvre · K kick out · C camera · P pause
THE LINEUP: sets roll in from the horizon. Sit and watch them. ◀ ▶ moves you along the line — the deepest surfer owns the wave.
Hold ▲ as a wave reaches you to swing round and paddle. ◀ ▶ while paddling angles the takeoff. Let go before the crest to pull back.
Take off in front of someone deeper and you have dropped in — it guts the score. Pump onto the wave, then find the pocket.
▼ under the whitewater to duck dive. In the barrel you hold your own line — drift out and the lip clips you, drop too deep and the foam ball has you.